第13部分(第4/7 頁)

as　caused　the　revival　of　wayside　inns。　It　may　be　so；　but　the　touring　cyclist　seems　to　be　very　easily　satisfied。　Unless　we　are　greatly　deceived　by　the　old　writers；　an　English　inn　used　to　be　a　delightful　resort；　abounding　in　fort；　and　supplied　with　the　best　of　food；　a　place；　too；　where　one　was　sure　of　wele　at　once　hearty　and　courteous。　The　inns　of　to…day；　in　country　towns　and　villages；　are　not　in　that　good　old　sense　inns　at　all；　they　are　merely　public…houses。　The　landlord's　chief　interest　is　the　sale　of　liquor。　Under　his　roof　you　may；　if　you　choose；　eat　and　sleep；　but　what　you　are　expected　to　do　is　to　drink。　Yet；　even　for　drinking；　there　is　no　decent　acmodation。　You　will　find　what　is　called　a　bar…parlour；　a　stuffy　and　dirty　room；　with　crazy　chairs；　where　only　the　sodden　dram…gulper　could　imagine　himself　at　ease。　Should　you　wish　to　write　a　letter；　only　the　worst　pen　and　the　vilest　ink　is　forthing；　this；　even　in　the　〃mercial　room〃　of　many　an　inn　which　seems　to　depend　upon　the　custom　of　travelling　tradesmen。　Indeed；　this　whole　business　of　innkeeping　is　incredibly　mismanaged。　Most　of　all　does　the　mon　ineptitude　or　brutality　enrage　one　when　it　has　possession　of　an　old　and　picturesque　house；　such　as　reminds　you　of　the　best　tradition；　a　house　which　might　be　made　as　fortable　as　house　can　be；　a　place　of　rest　and　mirth。

At　a　public…house　you　expect　public…house　manners；　and　nothing　better　will　meet　you　at　most　of　the　so…called　inns　or　hotels。　It　surprises　me　to　think　in　how　few　instances　I　have　found　even　the　pretence　of　civility。　As　a　rule；　the　landlord　and　landlady　are　either　contemptuously　superior　or　boorishly　familiar；　the　waiters　and　chambermaids　do　their　work　with　an　indifference　which　only　softens　to　a　condescending　interest　at　the　moment　of　your　departure；　when；　if