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In body they are handsome and often stately; but their souls seem crushed。 Now they; whose race once was free and great; as the mighty ruins show; are but hewers of wood and drawers of water whom the white man kills if they venture to cross his desire。 On the narrow mountain paths or in the depths of the vast forests the traveller meets them toiling forward under the weight of some tremendous load。 Humbly the poor creatures; in whose veins perhaps flows the blood of Montezuma; draw aside and stand resting on their long sticks while the white lords pass。 Then once more they begin their patient journeyings。
By the way; I saw a very curious “mackintosh” in use among these Chiapas Indians。 It consisted of two huge leaves; I suppose of some water plant; which were fastened together at the base; leaving a hole for the wearer’s head。 These leaves; thus arranged; hung to below the middle before and behind; and were impermeable even to the tropical Mexican rain。 A long line of men clad in them presented the strangest of sights。
We arrived at the mine at last; and spent some days there。 It was in the charge of an English gentleman whose name I am sorry to say I have quite forgotten; but who received us with much kindness。 He had built himself; or the pany had built for him; a long low house with a verandah and some spare rooms; in one of which I slept。 After the mosquito…haunted canoe and our nocturnal habitations; that clean little room seemed an almost celestial abode。 Tarantulas were very plentiful about the house and; going to bed one night; I perceived a specimen of inconceivable size — really it looked as large as a plate — sitting on the ceiling immediately above my head; and shouted for assistance。 My host arrived and; after inspection of the monster; exclai
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